Slick Extra Virgin

After tasting thousands of different Australian extra virgin olive oils over the last 13 years, here are some personal non-technical observations on some of the major varieties grown here.

Frantoio – The Tuscan variety Frantoio is probably the most widely planted variety in Australia due to its popularity with boutique and small growers. Nearly always picked so as to retain its characteristic grassy flavours, it usually makes medium to robust oils. At its best it displays attractive complex floral hints. However it is a finicky variety in that if picked too late it produces rather bland uninteresting oil.

Leccino –An early ripening Tuscan variety which is often planted in frost prone regions. Depending on where it is grown it can produce very sweet mild oils through to intensely bitter examples. Good examples have an attractive malty flavour and a sweet finish. Often blended with Frantoio and other Tuscan varieties such as Pendolino and Corregiola.

Coratina – A relatively new variety in Australia, Coratina produces intensely bitter and peppery oils which have good shelf life. It displays a herbaceous and rocket leaf flavour when picked early, but can produce ripe banana like flavours if made from more mature olives. Given that it hails from Southern Italy, it’s not surprising that it is doing well in the warmer climatic regions of Australia.

Picual – On an area basis, Picual is the most widely planted variety in the world, with over 80% of Spain’s huge production being dedicated to it. It is also a major variety in Australia primarily because of its popularity with larger growers. It is an excellent variety having high levels of healthy monounsaturated fats, and also medium to high levels of antioxidants. It is characterised by distinctive green tomato and tomato leaf flavours that broaden out guava like tropical flavours if picked later in the season. Picual is proving to be a very versatile variety that holds its flavour even under trying growing conditions.

Arbequina – An unusual variety in that it typically produces soft sweet oils with artichoke, avocado, almond and sometimes earthy flavours. Although not that widely planted in Australia at present it is gaining rapidly in popularity due to its propensity of producing market friendly oils. While hailing from Catalonia in Southern Spain, it has become an important variety in California as its compact and upright growth habit makes it eminently suited for high density mechanised plantings. Due to its relatively low percentage of monounsaturated fats, and below average levels of natural antioxidants it has a short shelf life relative to many other varieties. For this reason, to date it has typically been blended with other varieties, but more varietal examples are being seen.

Barnea – Can best be described as the workhorse of the Australian extra virgin olive oil trade. It produces very serviceable oils which vary significantly in intensity depending on the growing season. By itself, Barnea produces herbal to ripe banana flavoured oils, but they are generally rather unexciting. For this reason it is commonly blended with fruity varieties like Picual. Indeed, it is a very ‘malealbe’ vareity when it comes to blending., tending to take on the characters of the  oils with which it is blended. Many Australian produced supermarket extra virgin olive oils are blends of Barnea and Picual.

Koroneiki – . What Gerwurztraminer is to wine, the Greek variety Koroneiki is to olive oil! At its best it is an unbelievably fragrant variety, with aromas of green banana and wildflowers. At its best is also displays a delightful faded rose petal character. Typically it produces a medio style oil but if picked early more robust oils can be produced. Due to the miniscule size of the olive, Koroneiki doesn’t machine harvest well, so to date it has been more popular with small growers who hand-harvest. However due to the quality of the oil that it makes, some larger growers have persevered with the variety and have optimised their harvesting techniques to accommodate it.

Manzanillo – Forrest Gump’s mother once said “Forrest — Life is like a box of cholcolates – you never know what you’re gonna get”. Manzanillo is like life. It is a widely grown variety that can also be made into table olives. Low oil yielding and difficult to process into oil, Manzanillo is the variety that both growers and processors love to hate. Despite its propensity to bankrupt all those who grow it, Manzanillo produces a wide variety of unusual and sometimes exciting flavours, from faint strawberry to the more common citrus and orange-blossom. Stylistically, Manzanillo varies a great deal. It can be bitter and peppery, or mild and sweet. Much of these differences can be attributed to how sympathetically the olive are processed into oil.

Nevadillo Blanco – Exotic name, but a difficult olive to grow as it is rather disease prone. However it does make robust oils with punchy ‘in your face’ flavours of tomato and (unusually) crushed black ants. Like Picual it is often described as tomato like when green but if harvested late, it typically shows ripe tropical, fruit bowl flavours while not unattractive does limit its culinary use.

Kalamata – Best known as a table olive, Kalamata can make a most interesting olive oil. Characterised by strong pepperyness but without the bitterness that usually accompanies this character, Kalamata olive oils often display interesting aromas and flavours of lavender and garden herbs. You won’t see many around as the variety has a very low oil yield and is more valuable when processed into black table olives. It’s my guess as the variety highest in the anti-inflammatory phenolic oleocanthal that produces the peppery note in extra virgin olive oil.

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